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Winemaking FAQs

If you’re a beginning winemaker, you probably have a lot of questions. This list of winemaking FAQs is by no means exhaustive, as there are plenty of books and YouTube channels you can reference for additional information. Therefore, I’ve tried to stick to the basics to avoid overwhelming anyone who’s just getting started. 

If you still have questions, check my Resources page to find great websites, groups and YouTube channels where you can learn even more.

General Questions

Technically any fruit fermented with sugar is wine. Some people call non-grape wine “country wine”, I’m guessing because it was originally made in rural areas with whatever fruit they had on hand.

Honestly, it’s pretty easy. You just need some sort of fruit juice, sugar and yeast. I’ve seen people make homemake wine using bread yeast, which does work. It just won’t get you a wine with a very high alcohol content.

It all depends on the ingredients. Alcohol is the byproduct of yeast consuming sugar. So the more sugar you start with and the more sugar your yeast consumes during the process, the higher the ABV. Yeasts have different alcohol tolerances, so some yeasts can consume less sugar before they die than others. In addition, too much sugar at the start can overwhelm your yeast and kill them. You can determine how much alcohol your finished wine has by measuring the sugar content before adding your yeast and then after fermentation is finished. See the hydrometer FAQ below for more information.

Wine is made with sugar, mead is made with honey. Technically as long as more than 50% of your fermentable “sugars” are honey, it’s considered a mead. But most people who make mead use all honey and no sugar.

Fermentation Questions

Theoretically yes, however some ingredients work better than others.

If using store-bought juice, make sure it doesn’t have preservatives like potassium sorbate, which prohibits yeast from multiplying and may either stall your fermentation or keep it from starting at all.

Highly acidic fruits, such as oranges, lemons, grapefruit and pineapple, can also cause problems if the overall acid level in your ferment is too high (which can kill the yeast). You can test the acidity of your mixture before adding yeast using pH strips that are available on Amazon.

When it comes to actual sugar, you can use any type you like. Raw sugar, organic sugar, white cane sugar, brown sugar, etc. Some people will use darker sugars to get a more rich, caramel like flavor in the finished product.

You can also use liquid “sugars” like maple syrup, agave syrup and even molasses (though use sparingly unless you want a wine that tastes like sulfur, which I learned the hard way).

Zero calorie “sweeteners” will not ferment because there is no “sugar” for the yeast to consume. So avoid things like Splenda or other diet sugar substitutes. If your goal is to produce a low calorie wine, your best bet is to ferment your wine as dry as possible so there’s very little sugar left. Then backsweeten with a non-fermentable sugar like Splenda.

Vegetables also have sugar and therefore can be used to make wine. I’ve seen people use potatoes, sweet potatoes, beets and peppers. Sometimes it’s fun to experiment if you don’t mind the risk that the finished product may not be something you like. In the worst case, you can always use your vegetable wine for cooking or turn it into wine vinegar.

In terms of spices, you can add them either during the fermentation or afterwards for a stronger flavor. For example, many people will add a vanilla bean for a day or so after their wine is finished. You’ll get less flavor from spices if you add them at the beginning because much of the flavor will ferment out during the process. In addition, it’s harder to control the amount of flavor. Adding spices at the end allow you to remove them when the flavor is what you want.

It depends on a few factors, including the type of yeast, the amount of sugar, and the temperature. The more sugar you add, the longer it will generally take the yeast to consume it. Some yeasts have higher alcohol tolerances than others, and will be able to consume more sugar, which can also increase fermentation time. Temperature also plays a role because the yeast need it to be warm enough to stay active. So if the temperature is below 75 degrees, the yeast may be less active, extending the amount of time it takes them to consume all the sugar.

Generally speaking, full fermentation can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. 

The longer your wine ferments, and the more sugar the yeast consume, the drier your wine will be. That’s because there will be less sweetness left in the finished product. Some people try to stop their ferments in the middle to control the sweetness level. Most experienced winemakers instead allow their wine to ferment all the way, and then add sweetness using juice, honey or sugar syrup afterwards to increase the sweetness. This process of “backsweetening” allows you to achieve a higher alcohol content while getting the sweetness level you prefer. In addition, because you have exhausted all your yeast, there’s less risk of fermentation restarting and a bottle exploding due to pressure.

There are a few ways to determine whether your wine is fermenting. The most obvious will be whether the air lock is bubbling. However, sometimes that doesn’t happen. You can also use a flashlight to look at the liquid itself and see if there are any bubbles along the top of the liquid. Another way to check, especially for darker wines, is to look along the sides of the jug – do you see yeast particles floating up and then falling back down? All of these things indicate there is gas being produced by the yeast and your wine is fermenting. In most cases, if your yeast is not dead and the temperature is warm, you’ll see a good amount of bubbling in the airlock and a lot of foam/bubbles on the top of the wine’s surface.

When reading recipes or watching videos about home winemaking, you will come across the terms “primary fermentation” and “secondary fermentation”. Sometimes they are just referred to as “primary” and “secondary”. 

Primary fermentation refers to what you think of as the winemaking process. This is when the yeast are doing their thing and your wine or mead is bubbling away. 

Secondary fermentation is the stage after this, when you have transferred your wine to a second vessel, leaving most of the sediment (dead yeast, fruit debris) behind. During secondary fermentation, there still may be some sporadic bubbling as some yeast and sugar may still be present. Secondary is when your wine begins clearing, and when some winemakers add additional ingredients like extra fruit, spices or oak for flavor.

Clearing & Aging Questions

Racking is the process of transferring your wine from one vessel to another, leaving the sediment at the bottom behind. Each time you “rack off” the debris from the wine above, the resulting wine is clearer. You will typically rack your wine from primary to secondary (see question above). Then you’ll likely rack your wine at least another time (sometimes 2-3 times more) before it’s clear enough to bottle. Keep in mind that the more you rack, the more liquid you will lose, leaving you with less wine to bottle at the end. So it’s better to leave the wine for at least a week in between rackings to ensure that enough sediment is dropping to the bottom to make the process worthwhile.

Cold crashing involves putting your wine in the fridge to speed up the dropping of sediment so you can rack sooner. Cold crashing also makes your yeast dormant (not dead), which keeps fermentation from continuing. In cold weather, some people even put their wine outside to cold crash. Cold crashing is completely optional. 

How quickly your homemade wine clears depends on a few factors. If you choose to cold crash, it may clear faster than if you leave it sitting in a warmer location. Using pectic enzymes with fruit-based wines can assist with faster clearing. In addition, some people (including me) add bentonite to their wines with the yeast to aid with clearing after fermentation. 

In general, it can take anywhere from a couple weeks to a few months to fully clear your wine, depending on your process.

If you’re impatient (like me), you may not want to wait weeks or months to drink your wine. There are products, called fining agents, which bind to the solids in your wine and help them drop to the bottom faster. Some options are Sparkolloid (which I use), bentonite clay and a 2-step product called Superkleer (note that it is made from shellfish in case you have allergies).

Yes, it’s your wine. If you don’t mind a little cloudiness, there’s nothing wrong with drinking wine or mead that isn’t 100% clear. Just be aware that wine with some remaining yeast can cause gastro-intestinal distress in some people. 

There’s no doubt that aging wine allows the flavors to mature. If your wine has multiple flavors, like fruit with spices, those flavors may “come together” better over time. And some “off” flavors can mellow over time, improving the overall taste.  However, whether you decide to age your wine and for how long is entirely up to you. 

Generally, if I make a wine that has a strong or weird taste that I don’t 100% like, I’ll bottle it and let it age for a few months. Sometimes it will taste much better at that point. So if you’re not happy with how a ferment came out, all is not lost – let it age a little (or a lot) before declaring it a total dudd.

Equipment Questions

A hydrometer measures the amount of sugar in your liquid. You’ll take a measurement at the beginning of the process before adding your yeast – this is called “specific (or starting) gravity” (SG). Then you’ll measure again when your fermentation is completed – that’s called your “final gravity” (FG). These two numbers allow you to determine the alcohol content in your wine. There are a few formulas you can use, but mine is:

(FG – SG) / .776 x 100 = ABV%

For example, if our SG is 1.080 and our FG is .994, the calculation would be:

(1.080-.994) / .776 x 100 = 11.08%

Your hydrometer is also useful in determining if your wine is fermenting and when it’s finished. If you know your SG, you can take readings every few days to ensure the number has gone down (indicating the yeast are eating the sugar). Your wine will be finished when the reading is 1.000 or less. I always try to reach .990 if possible, as that indicates the wine has no more sugar to ferment and the wine will be dry.

Here’s a great video explaining how to use and read your hydrometer:

Yes, you can even use the plastic jug your store bought juice comes in. 2 gallon water dispensers with spigots also make good and cheap fermenters.

Many people suggest not leaving your wine in a plastic container after fermentation, however. There’s a concern about chemicals in the plastic seeping into the wine, and also the wine flavors/scents can become embedded into the plastic (which makes the container less appealing to use for future winemaking). 

No, really all you need to get started is a fermentation container (a glass one gallon jug is ideal). A funnel is an essential when adding the sugar to your juice. Having a hydrometer makes the whole process easier, so I recommend that if you can afford one (they are pretty inexpensive on Amazon). And an auto-siphon makes racking your wine easier, so that would be my other recommendation for beginners. Everything else is optional and you can purchase if you decide winemaking will be an ongoing hobby.